5 Best Places Featuring Veggie Thai Cuisine
Westerners often link Buddhism with vegetarianism. And Thailand is justly famous worldwide for its varied cuisine. Alas, while most Thais are Buddhists, the vast majority are devout carnivores. More vegetarian restaurants are nonetheless sprouting in Thailand, partly due to pernicious Western influences and the tastes of foreign tourists. (Both Bangkok branches of the pioneering Whole Earth Restaurant have folded, however.)
Here are five of the best Bangkok restaurants and cafes featuring Thai vegetarian food.
Anotai
Small but soothing, best choice for slightly formal occasions and groups in town for conferences and business meetings. Thai salads, noodles, soups, tofu, tempeh and herbal teas are beautifully presented. Also on the menu are vegetarian Italian items and an unusual mélange of Thai and Western desserts.
Anotai must be the only restaurant in Bangkok that can guarantee most of its vegetable servings are truly organic. Anotai herself, the proprietor and a Cordon Bleu-trained cook, owns a plot of land outside Bangkok where much of the vegetables originate. She also runs the cooking school and yoga studio in the same compound. Anotai is pricier than most other restaurants listed here. Per person, a full meal from appetizer to dessert runs around the equivalent of $12-$18.
Anotai address: 976/17 Soi Rama 9 Hospital, Hway Kwang district, (in a plaza across from “phyabaan paa ram gao”). Open daily except Wednesday, 10 am-9:30 pm. Telephone 02-641-5366. Difficult to find, so get directions written in Thai to give a taxi driver. Nearest subway stop is Petchburi Road station.
Baan Suan Pai
A good cheap lunch spot, food court style, in the midst of the up-and-coming Aree neighborhood. Thai cuisine is represented by salads, spicy vegetables and even brown rice. The entrees of imitation “meat” made from soy and gluten are Chinese imports. Here’s a glimpse of it with directions to the shop across Phaholyothin Road.
Baan Suan Pai address: 304 Phaholyothin Road (between Phaholyothin Soi 3 and Soi 6), very near Skytrain’s Aree (or Ari) station Take Exit 1 from the station; it’s across the street from a Mazda dealership. Open daily 8 am-7 pm. Telephone 02-615-1583, 02-615-2454.
May Kaidee
Something of a legend for a generation of backpackers. At this cafĂ©, also known at Mai Kaidee II, feast on a full array of som tam and other spicy salads, curries, tofu, pumpkin hummus, spring rolls, sandwiches and–rare in Thailand—brown rice.
Mai, the founder and chief cook, was a country girl who found a niche in the city by currying to foreign tourists. She now runs vegetarian and vegan cooking classes in English twice daily at this venue. Occasionally, she offers them in Chiang Mai (where there’s another May Kaidee restaurant) and other tourist zones. She’s even written a Thai vegetarian cookbook. Check out the May Kaidee website for schedule, registration and FAQs.
May Kaidee address: 33 Samsen Road (left-hand side, shortly after crossing Banglampoo canal from direction of Khaosan Road). Open daily 9 am-11 pm. For information on all Bangkok outlets, telephone 02-281-7699, 089-137-373 or 082-281-7699.
The original May Kaidee is still open off Tanao Road, at 111 Rachadamnuen Road, at the east end of Khaosan Road. But it’s barely more than a street stall. The Samsen Road outlet is cleaner, more comfortable and only a ten-minute walk away. Even more confusing, there’s a shop and third outlet, 50 meters from the original; it’s called “May Kaidee’s NEW Vegetarian Restaurant and Organic Food Center.” The website provides a map and explicit directions.
Mission Hospital Cafeteria
Cafeteria of the Seventh Day Adventist Mission Hospital. Members of the SDA religion are strict octo-lacto vegetarians. Open all day, this quiet, cool cafeteria offers a well-balanced choice of rice, beans, vegetables and fresh fruit. On Wednesdays, look for bajang, white sticky rice mixed with mushroom, peanuts, black pepper and parsley roots.
While the menu includes juices and bael-fruit tea, there are no stimulating soft drinks or caffeine-loaded beverages. Spicy dishes are only low- to medium-hot. A shop next door sells nuts, cereals, dried fruit and legumes, sesame paste and other vegetarian necessities.
Address: SDA Mission Hospital (“phyabaan mi-shun”), 430 Phitsanulok Road (at Petchburi Road intersection), Dusit district. Open daily 6 am-6 pm. Telephone 02-181-1100. Easy to locate.
Vegetarian Club
One of many small bare-bones vegetarian restaurants throughout Thailand operated by Santi Asoke, a reformist Buddhist sect. This one occupies the ground-floor corner of a shabby old shophouse. The day’s selections are displayed in trays in the front window, there’s no air-con and the friendly patrons sit wherever there’s space at the five tables. Look out for chilies; some vegetable combinations are very spicy hot.
Vegetarian Club address: 455/26 Soi Suan Phlu, Daily 8 am-2:30 pm. Telephone 02-286-8886. Despite the official address, located on a small lane off Soi Suan Phlu called Soi Prasat Court. Coming from Sathorn Road, walk along Soi Suan Phlu about 400 meters. Soi Prasat Court is on the left-hand side. No English spoken.
There’s a larger branch open on weekends, allegedly near the Chatuchak Weekend Market. It’s not so near–it must be a good 800 meters west of the market, somewhere north Kampaengphet 1 Road. It’s very difficult to find. Food court-style dining takes place under a roof , but it’s open air on the sides, like a market. Meal service runs until 2 pm. Organic products are also sold. Good luck finding it. Even fluent Thai speakers may get lost.
